Fashion and Design

Jeanette, you’ve been running a successful business for a long time, can you tell me something about it?

Yeah! Please call me Jeannie! I’m a designer/dressmaker, and I’ve had my business for, um, about twenty eight years now. I always have an initial consultation with my clients, to personalise their clothes, although sometimes people bring pictures to me to give me an idea of what they want. I’m busy all year round, but some seasons are busier – like the run up to Christmas, and the Aintree races. I do quite a lot of graduate ball gowns too. And weddings, of course. I even did a funeral pall for a child’s coffin once…

What inspired you?

Oh, my Mum always used to make dresses for family. I was fascinated, and she let me help. One of her friends had a home-based dressing-making business too, so I suppose you could say I was inspired from the age of seven!

How did you decide to go self-employed?

Well, when I was at secondary school in the early 1970s my head mistress realised how serious I was about design, so she arranged some work experience for me (during the holidays) with her couturière, Florence Last. Have you heard of her? She sold to the likes of Yves San Laurent. I learned professional couturier and production techniques from her, and imagined I’d work for her eventually.

When I was 16, I went to Mabel Fletcher Tech College and got two diplomas, in Clothing Technology and Retail Fashion. Then I went to Liverpool Poly to do my degree.

After that, it just evolved… While I was in Poly, I carried on designing and producing, and started building up a client base. In my last year I went for interview with Jeff Banks who was just starting up ‘Warehouse’ in London. During our discussion, he pointed out that I was already technically self-employed!

What happened next, Jeannie?

Well, once I finished my degree I found work rooms to hire. My parents really helped me – they paid first three months rent; and I took out a small bank loan to buy machinery. I paid it back quickly, I didn’t want anything like that hanging over me. I moved here years ago, so now I have my work space downstairs and live in the flat above. It’s much more convenient.

Was that the only financial support you’ve had?

Yes, until quite recently, when a business advisor referred me to Creativebias because I fitted the funding criteria for one of their small business support projects. I was great – I got enough funding to buy security shutters for my shop and work space.

If you were advising someone who was thinking about becoming self-employed, what skills would you say were necessary?

Well, in my line of business, passion, and ability in design and dress-making; and also window display design. In general, though, they’d need stamina to deal with the long hours, self discipline and business management skills. Working with the public, people skills are really important too.

Which of them did you have when you started up?

By time I started Byzantium I’d been trained in all these skills. And I was really lucky to have had so many years experience working with such a famous couturière, Florence Last. I studied some accountancy but found very dull…

So how did you deal with that?

Oh, that was easy! I employed an accountant! I still have the same one – after so many years, we understand each other.

How did you go about writing your business plan?

Business plan? I’ve never had one! I didn’t need one for the original bank loan, and my business has been successful enough not to need further loans. I don’t want to build an empire!

That’s not to say I don’t do any planning, of course! I do a weekly plan, as clients are booked in; but I also make time for drop-in customers. I keep basic financial records and my accountant deals with the rest!

And what about now? Are their any new skills you think you need?

Modern technology, I suppose - even though my business works well at an old-fashioned pace. I don’t use IT at all. My boyfriend is designing a website for me at the moment, but I would like to learn how to edit and add stuff myself. It would provide a new marketing opportunity.

How do you go about advertising?

I don’t do much, really. I get a lot of new business through word of mouth recommendations. It’s worked for me for twenty eight years – some clients travel from as far as Yorkshire! And I’ve done a few fashion shows, but they don’t usually amount to much – maybe the odd phone call after a few months.

Recently I’ve had a few promotional things made. I give pens and carriers bags instead of business cards - that was an idea from Creativebias! I’m going to get some garment labels made soon, so I can personalise my designs.

What are your long terms goals, Jeannie?

I’ve been in business for 27 years – isn’t that long term enough?! I thought about specialising in one design area, but I decided I’d probably get bored. All in all, I’m happy to carry on as I am now.

Finally, is there anything you wish you’d known from the outset?

Not really. I was well-prepared when I started up. I’d just tell anyone else not to be put off, but to be aware that working for yourself, and honouring client deadlines, means there are long hours ahead!